Terrific base for summer mountaineering. Sometimes used for ski touring. There are two current summer access routes: both begin at Moraine Lake (5-8 hours) and involve technical rock climbing and glacier travel. Class B+, sleeps 18 (16 in winter). The hut may also be reached via a non-technical, but glaciated route from Prospectors Valley, with an overnight in the new Fay Hut enroute.
This is the highest permanent, habitable structure in Canada, edging out the Abbot Pass Hut by about 100 feet! Located in a col between Mts. Little and Bowlen, the Neil Colgan Hut serves as the base for excellent alpine mountaineering objectives in the Valley of the Ten Peaks.
The peaks of the Valley of the Ten Peaks are all over 10,000 feet, and the hut, at 9,700 feet is an ideal base for bagging these summits. It is standard to climb a number of peaks in a day, and it is not uncommon to stop back at the hut for lunch on the porch, or another cup of coffee between summits.
The routes accessible from the hut range from moderate scrambles up Mts. Little and Bowlen, just outside the hut, to the north face ice routes on Mts. Fay and Quadra. The many other peaks have difficulties somewhere in between.
The Colgan Hut is equipped with propane stoves and lanterns and is well-stocked with cooking supplies and foamies for 18 in summer and 16 in winter. It is well-insulated and warms up nicely when the stoves and lanterns are on and a few bodies are inside.
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