Banana Peel 5.8 The Central Apron Squamish Chief
This seven pitch climb is a classic and great introduction to climbing on the central apron. Glacial scouring has created rounded dips and waves in the granite making this interesting terrain to explore. The apron itself is quite laid back especially to the south.
This climb employs a mix different techniques and situations. The wavy granite slabs give the climber an opportunity to practice moves using friction for progress. Crystal hunting for tiny rugosites and eroded pits and gingerly padding on smooth granitic veneer presents the challenge. It's pretty easy though. If you are not satisfied with the challenge try a light pair of hiking boots instead of the gooey rubber on today's technical climbing shoes. There are much higher angles slabs to the north like Dream On, which will truly test your mettle as well as rubber.
Initially expect some traversing south from the start of Diedre. Travel a horizontal crack for about 100 metres. Trees on the way make it protectable if the exposure bugs you. This is basically 4th class climbing. An obvious birch marks the belay to begin Banana Peel directly. Head up on slabs. Keep going, run out the rope, and belay at the next tree. From here you'll look up and see some slabs and then a bit of a wall about 4 metres high. Climb up the slabs (crux) clip the bolts clip the fixed pin in the crack that brakes the wall (back up the pin; it's been there for years) sling it well, as otherwise rope drag is a real possibility. Go left and belay at the tree. Note, in photo, the climber is making the last moves to the belay after the little wall. Head higher following a little erosion gully to a ?V? cove and belay here. Head off to the right on crystals and dip down to some trees. The next section is really neat, as it moves up and over hollow flakes and eventually follows a shallow corner past a big block to Broadway Ledge. Exit as you would for Diedre. See Diedre Description. Wires, slings and cams to 2 inches should do for protection.
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