5.10a Pandora is a great route. Start up the slab left of the gully and right of the big roof past 3 bolts through a notch. Climb straight up past 4 more bolts. While this route has good protection from bolts bring along some wired nuts and cams.
Directions:
Rt 52 to the roadside pull off. Park and hike climbers trail to bottom of cliff.
Reference these helpful guide books for more info:
Rock and Ice Climbs in the Camden Hills - Ben Townsend
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