Follow Highway 23 south for 10km to the trail head on the right side of highway. A steep km trail leads you to the toe of the glacier. Mountaineering skills are requiered to complete the final climb to the summit. The glacier is crevased so roped travel and crevase rescue knowledge are requiered. Assend the glacier from it's snout traversing to the left. Approximatley 200m up the glacier to the left you will be able to see a large ledge the traverses the middle peak (careful crossing the bergsrund). Once on this ledge follow it to the arete of the middle peak. At this point you will follow the ridge to the summit (scramble). From the glacier it takes approximatley two and a half hours. Be mindful of the afternoon weather as thunderstorms are common in the spring and summer.
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Posted By: Cottonline
- Tue Aug 02 19:52:25 UTC 2016
UpsideI found the hike to be grooling. 40 lb pack up 5 km's of relentlessy steep trail to the 3-tent-pad campsite. But the trail is in great shape. Well kept out house and good watersource at campsite. Passed two other campsites about 1/2 hour from main campsite that would do well in nasty weather. More sheltered. DownsideMinimal views on the way up but beautiful old growth forest. No water available until well into the hike. CommentI didn't summit as the fear of heights/exposure was too much for me. My accomplice did summit in 70 minutes from the bottom of the glacier. I suspect this is much faster than normal as he's a machine. 3.5 hours to campsite from parking lot. .5 hour from campsite to base of glacier. 70 minutes to summit from glacier My uploaded GPS track only includes ascent as it gave me some squirrelly results on the descent.