Diedre Central Apron Squamish Chief

Diedre Central Apron Squamish Chief near Squamish, BC


This trail was given a rating of 4 out of 5 stars This trail was given a rating of 4 out of 5 stars This trail was given a rating of 4 out of 5 stars This trail was given a rating of 4 out of 5 stars This trail was given a rating of 4 out of 5 stars
-
5hours
moderate
Rock Climbing
Spring, Fall, Summer
Squamish, BC
User Alpenglow_Pro
Photos by Greg Maurer of www.alpenglowpro.com. Photo Workshops, Limited Edition Prints and Panoramas.

Diedre 5.8 Central Apron Squamish Chief

Diedre is French for large open groove, eh? It's a 7 pitch corner (dihedral--a great climbing word) and is one of the finest moderate routes on the central apron of the Squamish Chief. Expect crowds and line-ups on most sunny days. Start early if you can. Or do it in a mid-January snowstorm to avoid the traffic.

It's so popular because it's a righteous sweet climb that follows a super clean corner of solid granite for almost 300 metres. The pro placement is perfect - small cams and wires should do the trick. If you are good you might only use a few pieces of pro per pitch. Otherwise beginners will have ample opportunities to slot as much as they want. This might be a great place for 5.12 gym rats to practice on real rock.

From the climbers parking lot follow the trail past the big boulder and head up the log. Keep right and scramble up the steep trail which zig-zags to the bottom of the granite slabs. Climb a short lead 5.6 up to a big birch tree and belay. Continue left to 5.7 a neat little cove and set up the next belay. Head left toward the corner 5.6 and set yourself up for the next couple of leads of laybacking 5.8. Its super protectable and, especially surmounting the little roof. Cruise up the 5.6 or less corner and do the final little 5.8 battle--move up to Broadway Ledge.

Exit

Head right to the end of Broadway Ledge and take either the trail down, or walk down slabs at the extreme south end of the apron to rejoin the trail. Beginners may find this kind of out there. A slip would turn into a tumbling fall which would end in a dramatic flight past overhangs to the highway below.


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Squamish, BC

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By magicmelPosted By: magicmel  - Fri Aug 29 20:16:05 EDT 2008 This trail was given a rating of 5 out of 5 stars This trail was given a rating of 5 out of 5 stars This trail was given a rating of 5 out of 5 stars This trail was given a rating of 5 out of 5 stars This trail was given a rating of 5 out of 5 stars Upside Stellar route. The lay-backing awesome! Downside Funky last move. Sketchy hike off. Comment Loved it! I followed it last time. Definitely leading it next time.
By happy wandererPosted By: happy wanderer  - Mon Jan 08 21:40:44 EST 2007 This trail was given a rating of 4 out of 5 stars This trail was given a rating of 4 out of 5 stars This trail was given a rating of 4 out of 5 stars This trail was given a rating of 4 out of 5 stars This trail was given a rating of 4 out of 5 stars Upside Great views! Downside Busy


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