Photos by Greg Maurer of www.alpenglowpro.com. Photo Workshops, Limited Edition Prints and Panoramas.
Diedre 5.8 Central Apron Squamish Chief
Diedre is French for large open groove, eh? It's a 7 pitch corner (dihedral--a great climbing word) and is one of the finest moderate routes on the central apron of the Squamish Chief. Expect crowds and line-ups on most sunny days. Start early if you can. Or do it in a mid-January snowstorm to avoid the traffic.
It's so popular because it's a righteous sweet climb that follows a super clean corner of solid granite for almost 300 metres. The pro placement is perfect - small cams and wires should do the trick. If you are good you might only use a few pieces of pro per pitch. Otherwise beginners will have ample opportunities to slot as much as they want. This might be a great place for 5.12 gym rats to practice on real rock.
From the climbers parking lot follow the trail past the big boulder and head up the log. Keep right and scramble up the steep trail which zig-zags to the bottom of the granite slabs. Climb a short lead 5.6 up to a big birch tree and belay. Continue left to 5.7 a neat little cove and set up the next belay. Head left toward the corner 5.6 and set yourself up for the next couple of leads of laybacking 5.8. Its super protectable and, especially surmounting the little roof. Cruise up the 5.6 or less corner and do the final little 5.8 battle--move up to Broadway Ledge.
Head right to the end of Broadway Ledge and take either the trail down, or walk down slabs at the extreme south end of the apron to rejoin the trail. Beginners may find this kind of out there. A slip would turn into a tumbling fall which would end in a dramatic flight past overhangs to the highway below.
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Posted By: magicmel
- Fri Aug 29 20:16:05 EDT 2008
UpsideStellar route. The lay-backing awesome!
DownsideFunky last move. Sketchy hike off.
CommentLoved it! I followed it last time. Definitely leading it next time.