This is a fantastic scramble to the summit of Eaton Peak with views of Mt. Outram and other neighboring peaks. Please read the Eaton Lake trip report for directions to the lake. This report starts at the lake. This is a long day trip and would also make a nice overnight if you wanted to camp at the lake.
There is no trail to speak of past the lake so it's really just a matter of bushwhacking up to the alpine. Traverse along the south side of the lake, climbing steadily. Alder, deadfall, boulder fields, this stretch has it all but it goes by relatively quickly and in an hour or so you will break out into the alpine. If it's early in the year, you'll probably be on open snow slopes; otherwise it'll be rocky meadow.
You can see your objective clearly from here. You'll want to head right towards the West Ridge. Climb up and over a cliff band, and then traverse under the face of Eaton Peak through the meadows before heading up through the scrubby alpine firs towards the rocky ridge. It is steep here and may be slippery.
Scramble up on to the ridge and follow it to the summit. This is not an easy scramble and you may feel more comfortable with a rope, particularly on one 20-30ft vertical wall. It isn't exposed but it's steep and some of the holds are loose.
The rest of the way up is fairly straightforward. Just watch for some loose boulders and some exposure.
On the summit, look inside the summit cairn for a box containing a summit register and historical information about the two young soldiers for whom the peak and lake are named.
Total time from trailhead to trailhead with a large group was 11.5 hours including breaks and bottlenecks on the route. A smaller group could move more quickly.
Eaton Peak - West Ridge
June 4, 2005
There is no trail to speak of past the lake so it's really just a matter of bushwhacking up to the alpine. Traverse along the south side of the lake, climbing steadily. Alder, deadfall, boulder fields, this stretch has it all but it goes by relatively quickly and in an hour or so you will break out into the alpine. If it's early in the year, you'll probably be on open snow slopes; otherwise it'll be rocky meadow.
You can see your objective clearly from here. You'll want to head right towards the West Ridge. Climb up and over a cliff band, and then traverse under the face of Eaton Peak through the meadows before heading up through the scrubby alpine firs towards the rocky ridge. It is steep here and may be slippery.
Scramble up on to the ridge and follow it to the summit. This is not an easy scramble and you may feel more comfortable with a rope, particularly on one 20-30ft vertical wall. It isn't exposed but it's steep and some of the holds are loose.
The rest of the way up is fairly straightforward. Just watch for some loose boulders and some exposure.
On the summit, look inside the summit cairn for a box containing a summit register and historical information about the two young soldiers for whom the peak and lake are named.
Total time from trailhead to trailhead with a large group was 11.5 hours including breaks and bottlenecks on the route. A smaller group could move more quickly.
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