NTS Map: 92G15. Easy access and high alpine make this a classic hike. Few hikes put you in such exceptional terrain so quickly.
The route is an old road once used to access the old Diamond Head Lodge -- now a part of history. What remains is a jeep road that is still used by B.C. Parks to supply the ranger station at Elfin Lakes. It's generally a good double-track except for some loose rock and a few muddy areas after a rain.
The hiking trail-head is 16 kilometers from the Sea-to-Sky highway (99) at an elevation of 1000 metres. If you park at the trail-head the area has seen a bit of criminal activity by local dysfunctionals so be sure to take valuables with you or keep them out of site.
The first 3.5-4 kilometres from the trail-head are the steepest until you get to Red Heather Meadows (1450metres). A great waterfall on the way provides a fresh cold drink. The meadows in winter provide perfect terrain to practice your tele-turns. In another 2.5 kilometres the high point of Paul Ridge (1660metres) is reached. The vistas open up and you can see your destination another 5 kilometres in the distance. Mt. Atwell can be seen as the diamond shaped peak to the north, the areas namesake. On the north the spire in behind is the actual summit of Mt.Garibaldi (2678metres). The route is completely surrounded by mountains: the Tantalus Range to thewest, Mt. Garibaldi and Diamond Head to the north, Mt. Mamquamto the east. All have glaciers which cascade to tree line.
Before and during the last ice age about 15-20,000 years ago Garibaldi Provincial Park was one of the premier volcanic areas of the Cascades. The Garibaldi Massif is in fact an old volcano. The sides have eroded away leaving a lava plug that still stands today. Mt. Atwell (Diamond Head) is mostly composed of compressed unstable muds. Black Tusk in Northern Garibaldi Park is another example of this volcanic geology.
A gentle descent to Elfin provides superb riding around granite outcrops, past stunted alpine fir and through meadows of flowering heather. Eventually, the 11-kilometre track ends atthe shelter and ranger outpost at the lakes. Campsites in the area make the trip suitable as an overnighter. Deeper in the park, many hiking options exist. Don't forget the sunscreen.
One final note, if hiking up in late July or August, the hot hike up (or ride, this is one of the few areas that allow bikes up to the Elfin Lakes shelter area), is compensated for by an incredible swim in the larger of the lakes. On a hot end of July day, our trio made straight for the lake, and while some find it still cold, others swim. It's clear cold water. The adjacent lake near the Ranger station is for drinking water.
Elevation Gain 850 MetresNote: Add 1000 metre if starting from Highway 99.
High Point 1660 Metres
Hiking Options:
Hike NW to the saddle between the The Gargoyles and Columnar Peak? for better views of the Garibaldi Massif and if you have the energy, dip down and hike up Little Diamond Head (1750metres) the often snowy cone below Mt Atwell.
Hike NE out to Opal Cone(1710metres) on the edge of the Garibaldi Neve ( permanent snowfield) a 13 kilometer round trip from Elfin Lakes. Or continue on to Mamquam Lake further to the east which is a 22 kilometre round trip from Elfin Lakes.
Approach
Travel north to Squamish on Highway 99 (Sea-to-Sky). Continue 5 kilometres past the town cross the Mamquam River. At the third set of lights turn right on the Mamquam River Road. Follow the signs to the Diamond Head Parking Lot at 1000metres. Once the road enters Garibaldi Park it steepens. The road is maintained a few times a season but sees a lot of traffic, use the pullouts and keep and even speed to lessen the creation of potholes. Cars can easily make this trip in the summer months.
Hike Breakdown
0km1000m Leave parking lot and start hiking up to Paul Ridge
3.5km1450m Red Heather Meadows and shelter
6km1660m Paul Ridge high point
11.5km1470m Descent to Elfin Lakes
ContactsBC Parks Squamish 1-604-898-3678 Free Through Inquiry BC 604-660-2421 If phoning out of the lower mainland 800-663-7867
Note: Rates! If you are planning to go overnight camping, the park charges $10 per night for staying on the campground, and $15 per night for staying in the Elfin Lakes shelter. Make sure you bring exact change with you, since you make your deposits in the envelopes, and have an in-person confrontation only in case you don't pay ;}
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ByPosted By: maybe_sparrow
- Fri Feb 22 15:20:33 EST 2013
UpsideStayed at Red Heather (tented) and it was so nice and quiet. Not the zoo that the lakes can be.
DownsideQuite packed snow when hiked on Feb 2nd.
CommentThe trail conditions can be found at http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/garibaldi/trail_report.pdf
This will tell you if the trail is marked and whether it is open.
Note that you must have chains to drive from the lower parking up to the trail head parking in the winter. The PFO was stopping people from driving up without chains, even if you have winter tires.
ByPosted By: mater
- Wed Nov 14 19:12:09 EST 2012
Not Rated
CommentLooking to find out the current conditions but can't find an updated source. Last is more than one month old. Looking to do the hike this weekend, nov 17-18th 2012. Can anyoen tell me if there is snow on the trail, and how much and if the guide poles are in place yet?
ByPosted By: krynikr
- Thu Nov 11 20:41:54 EST 2010
Not Rated
QuestionI'm planning on heading up to Elfin Lake on Monday just for the day and was wondering if anyone knows what the weather conditions are generally like in November? ie how much snow? Are hiking shoes sufficient or do I need boots, goggles, snowshoes etc? ANSWERS are in this forum: Gear requirement
ByPosted By: jearsy
- Sat Jun 05 22:30:54 EDT 2010
UpsideFantastic views, well marked trial and a very good cabin to use at the end of the day.
DownsideA very dull trial for the first 6 or kms that goes straight up until you reach the plateau.
CommentThis is another one of my favorite hikes in the southern BC area. I have done this hike twice and both times I have loved every moment of it. You do need to pay for your car to be parked and there is no way to know whether or not it is a safe place to park it, but this is a fantastic hike.
I have done this as a three day hike each time and on the second day we have hiked out to the Opal Cone which was an amazing experience as well. However, back to the lakes, you couldn't have asked for a better least of all a spectacular place to stay in for how ever many nights you are going to be there. There are bunk beds on the second level but that is all that is provided and I think it can hold at least 40 people up there and the cabin has propane there as well. However, I just prefer to use my own stove though it is really nice to sometimes be able to snatch a big pot that is there when you are cooking or heating up a lot of water for something.
This is a must-do hike!
ByPosted By: DB Photo and Film
- Fri Jun 04 13:10:40 EDT 2010
UpsideI have only done this hike once on December 24th. It was about -5 light snowfall our group some were in snow shoes some on skis. We finished near dusk which was later than it should have been but it was an absolutely sensational trip. The lodge is a guarantee you can dry off, cook spread out and relax! Not sure what it is like in summer but winter is amazing.....
DownsideI dont remember any.
ByPosted By: bionicflite
- Tue Feb 16 04:03:11 EST 2010
Not Rated
UpsideHeavy snowfall produced awesome features going into the ridge just before dropping down to Red Heather shelter on the way back.
DownsideExperiencing vis so bad one could barely view GPS is a reality and goggles are recommended.
CommentJust did this snow shoe trek to Elfin Lake Shelter for the second time Friday Feb 12th.Luckly had way points from previous trek the week before because the weather got ugly and a blizzard produced white out conditions with wet snow which covered the reflectors on the usual marker poles.Broke trail the last 2 i/2 km with 3-4 ft. snow drifts.Even though I had waypoints having my girlfriend wait at the previous pole while I search for next would have been easier if I would have saved the tracking profile. Thanks to the warm shelter kept at 70F...my girlfriend was at her limit. Lesson...be prepared. Only had sunglasses which thought I would only need and didn't count on arriving at the shelter in the dark.
Goggles will be with my gear in the future you bet. The avalanche warning was moderate.
A Valentines Day weekend I will never forget
ByPosted By: Shieck
- Sun Jan 10 20:44:35 EST 2010
Not Rated
QuestionI'm heading up to the shelter for the first time on tues Jan 12th. I'm wondering if there are mattresses in the cabin for the beds or do you need to bring a Thermarest?
Should I bring a tent as back up? Will there really be 30 people on a tuesday night in the winter?
Thanks A.J.ANSWERS are in this forum: Elfin Lakes Cabin
ByPosted By: habs4evr
- Mon Oct 19 09:59:21 EDT 2009
Not Rated
QuestionAnyone know approx. date when Elfin Lakes have skateable ice?ANSWERS are in this forum: freeze-up at Elfin Lakes
ByPosted By: Daylan
- Mon Aug 18 20:47:23 EDT 2008
Not Rated
QuestionI was just wondering how much snow there might be right now at elfin lakes?ANSWERS are in this forum: hey got a question?
ByPosted By: botanique
- Sun Aug 17 13:57:57 EDT 2008
UpsideA beautiful bike ride, steady climb, easy grade with some short steeper bits, the payoff is the alpine meadow at the Elfin Lakes - worth the grunt. The ride down is a gas!
DownsideTrack is rocky most of the way up, past the treeline, there is about a kilometre of loose scree type rock that can be a challenge. Bugs are an issue so to stay sane and happy, cover yourself well with bug dope before you set off.
CommentThe trails of Squamish and surroundings are an annual pilgrimage for me. This one was a "must do" and was well worth the ride. We were the only two bikes on the trail - a lightweight XC bike with at least 100mm of suspension travel is recommended. This is just one beautiful place among all the beautiful places in the most beautiful place in the world.
ByPosted By: trailrunner
- Sat Aug 09 00:29:50 EDT 2008
UpsideEasy straight forward path wide enough for fullsize pick up truck to nudge up the hill. Full opening and no chance of getting lost. Beautiful scenery of mountains in all directions. Crowds. Beautiful warm enough lake to swim at the top.
Downside Some times rocks are loose, sharp, and protruding and easy to trip your foot, forcing you to slowdown often.
CommentPath starts with gravel road gated at the parking. Ascent is lot more gentle and than Garibaldi Lake, yet sometimes number of rocks and their looseness makes it more difficult to run from the starting point. This is effectively a 4x4 road for off road trucks.
After a while the road under the crown of trees starts opening up as it approaches meadows with cabin and small buildings. Sparsely growing trees, mainly mountain hemlock, and other grasses cover the area. Here there is a sign for hikers to take more direct route that is branching off the road which is intended for trucks/bikes for gentler ascent. But I wasn't paying attention and didnâ??t realize till on my way back. After a while you get to the ridge where you get a great view of Diamond Head as well as other mountains in other directions. Here you see road cutting up the grassless ridge like a mining road in the distance.
When you actually get to the high point at the ridge, then you see the cabin at Elphin Lake in the distance. Quite disappointingly I saw them at the lot lower elevation; Somehow I got an idea this was a continuous uphill to the lake, but this is the highest point between the parking and the Elphin Lake.
Although the decent starts towards the lake, I had hard time picking up speed because of piled up loose sharp rocks and some firmly buried yet protruding rocks. Small descent and ascent repeats towards the lake going through occasional trees, you arrive a point with view of two Elphin lakes and grand mountains behind them. From here, less than a km, you would breeze down with speed with straight downhill. There are three or so buildings at the lake and two benches. Lake water is warm enough to swim(when there is no snow bank present near by). One lake was designated for drinking water though, and bigger one was for swimming.
On return you need to run up again to the highest point amongst often loose sharp rocks. In fact I tripped up with one of them for a rather bad fall. If the weather is clear, make sure to bring sunglasses and tan lotion as you are mostly under the direct run at least half the distance. After the highest point, it is a steady comfortable descent to the parking. From parking to Elphin lake(where main Cabin behind Ranger station is) 67 minutes, return to the parking was 51minutes. Excluding 30min break at the top, go-and-return time is 1hr 58 mins. Took 1 minute longer than Garibaldi lake run. Because of bad fall, I was rather going slow. Fast runner should be able to do a return trip in 1hr 30 to 1hr 40 minutes.
ByPosted By: Redcomet
- Tue Apr 25 17:37:18 EDT 2006
UpsideGreat bike ride, lots of hill to keep the blood pumping. Not too many chances to ride in the Alpine like this.
DownsideA few bugs, bring the bug-dope
CommentThis is an awesome XC bike ride with excellent stops along the way. Only other bike we saw was the forestry ranger. Will be back again for 2006 season with my new dual suspension. The ride down was rocky in spots
ByPosted By: Mertin
- Wed Dec 03 12:12:30 EST 2003
CommentThis is a trail that I have done many times both in winter and in summer. ya the beginning is a little borish but once you get to the incredible scenery by the two lakes you quickly forget all that you have just endured. great hike, I would recommend it to anyone!
ByPosted By: trailpeak
- Thu Jul 31 13:59:22 EDT 2003
UpsideViews once through the first 6km are awesome, great grunt of a bike ride for those who ride. But mostly, swimming at Elfin Lakes, pure water, cool yes, but I swam around the lake (as did others) July 30 or so, awesome to dip in after a hot hike/bike up.
DownsideFor me, it was the deer flies and black flies, but, the buggers seem territorial and you usually only have one on you at a time.
CommentI was surprised to see that the stoves in the shleter are turn-and-go, i.e. no matches, no propane needed, just ready for you. A hiker can cut down on gear simply by brining a sleeping pad and light sleeping bag, no stove, no propane needed. On July 30, there were maybe 10 people staying over in a shelter that holds 34. One other caution, don't leave valuables in your car in the P lot, I remember biking up to the parking lot on a separate occasion (for a separate ride) and seeing 4 very unhappy hikers returning to their car completely robbed of packsacks and other gear left behind.
ByPosted By: QTPahtootie
- Tue Oct 22 20:24:59 EDT 2002
UpsideThis is a great trail...I love the views. Especially of the Gargoyles. Makes for a very enjoyable day hike, or overnight adventure if you choose to camp out at Elfin lakes, or stay at the cabin.
DownsideWould be nicer if the first part of the trail wasn't a road...but you can't win them all.
CommentThis is definately a trail that I will be doing again. Looking forward to checking it out in the winter.
ByPosted By: QTPahtootie
- Tue Oct 22 20:24:58 EDT 2002
UpsideThis is a great trail...I love the views. Especially of the Gargoyles. Makes for a very enjoyable day hike, or overnight adventure if you choose to camp out at Elfin lakes, or stay at the cabin.
DownsideWould be nicer if the first part of the trail wasn't a road...but you can't win them all.
CommentThis is definately a trail that I will be doing again. Looking forward to checking it out in the winter.
ByPosted By: wanderlust
- Wed Aug 28 17:50:10 EDT 2002
Not Rated
UpsideEasy as it gets - great view to sweat ratio.
DownsideOften plagued with bugs, makes it hard to enjoy the lakes. The first 6 of 11km is on a dull dirt road.
CommentDespite it's length, Elfin Lakes is a great intro to would-be hikers. Very gentle grade, and the last leg toward the lakes follows a beautiful alpine ridge, surrounded by the coast mountains on all sides. The cabin at the top is cozy, and a great base for the gorgeous ascent to Mamquam lake.
ByPosted By: thomas.nicolaisen
- Wed Apr 03 23:06:27 EST 2002
UpsideThis hike is very well marked in the winter time by red poles in the snow, and in the summer you have to be blind to miss the tail. Makes for an excellent introduction to back country skiing or snowshoeing.
DownsideMore then you think Elfin Lakes is a good destination during July and August. The first 5Km is on a gravel road/trail in the trees with only a few nice views until the Red Heather.
CommentThis is the trail I have done the most times. The Elfin Shelter is always a very welcome sight after a day of hiking, and it's setting by two great lakes is nothing but perfect. It makes a great starting point for a next day hike to Mamquam Lake as part of a longer outing or the Opal Cone and return to the parking lot for a good day hike.
Another option is to hike up the Gargoyls. Thew view from the top is great with Mt Geribaldi and Diamond Head near by.
The easy access, the view after the Red Heather Camp Ground, and the fact that the Elfin shelter is so well maintained makes this hike a must do each year.
ByPosted By: alexk
- Tue Mar 12 12:43:58 EST 2002
UpsideScenery is cool, this is definitely a cool trail, once you get above the tree level. Make sure you have water with you and a hat! There is not a lot of the shade from Red Heather campsite to Elfin Lakes
DownsideThe road to get up there is tough, first 20 km of gravel road are ok, but last few kilometers are pit-hole on a pit-hole! (I am still amazed of how cars pass each other when driving head-on) Out of 5 hours of hiking, 1st 2 hours you spend in th woods, only after that it gets more interesting.
CommentUmm.. talking about the tent, one time we have stayed there, we camped first night in the cabin, and second night in the tent. The second night the camp was hit by a bear, which we knew nothing of until the morning, when two guys complained they were troubled by the bear overnight...
ByPosted By: Niels
- Mon Aug 06 23:44:27 EDT 2001
Not Rated
CommentElfin Lakes I found this trial to be very long. It was hard to stay motivated because the entire trail is actually a road! The scenery was fantastic, hike up the volcano it is well worth the extra walk. There is also a shelter for the campers to sleep in on a first come first serve basis. I prefered the tent out in the open! Go later in the summer to avoid the snow mmkay!