Victoria has several good climbing areas all around it. One of the more popular is Mt. Wells. There are several developed cliffs here, several in the process of being cleaned and potential for many more. There are trad and sport climbs, classic moderates and insane roofs--something for everyone. With a few exceptions most of the climbs are one pitch and fairly short. The newer climbs can be a bit dirty early on. These pictures are of the area firewall. The right wall is a water polished slab with some 5.9's and 10s. To the left is my little project. The pictured climb surrounded by moss is 'smokey smith' a short 5.8ish climb with a small bulge that can be bypassed to the right. There is also a cool overhang to the right of this that I have put in top anchors but haven't climbed yet. Looks maybe 5.11ish
The best way to find the crags around Vic is to buy the local climbing guide but here is my rough description. To get to the cragging areas at Mt. wells take Hwy 1 out of Victoria. Turn left at the Goldstream turnoff (about 22 km from downtown). There is a sign for Goldstream Provincial Park; the Goldstream trailer park and ice cream stand are here. There is a designated left turning lane too. Turn left again at Millers Pub (its obvious). You are now on Humpback Road. Follow Humpback Road until it comes to a Y junction. Turn right toward the reservoir. Park at the turnoff on your left 1.1 km later. There should be some trails leading into the woods.
The trail up and left leads to a bouldering area; then if you continue scrambling up the bluffs it leads to firewall and discotheque. The trail that leads up and right will take you to the impressive main wall and south cliff.
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