Photos by Greg Maurer of www.alpenglowpro.com. Photo Workshops, Limited Edition Prints and Panoramas.
Fungus Razor 512b/5.10d Lower Malamute
If you feel like you are climbing like a beast on this one. Try this route even if it's only the first pitch. It starts very deviously and you'll probably have to get into some far-east meta-physical headspace before you can levitate over the first move. This first obstacle is a weird little roof overhang that seems to be the wrong height and position to make any progress. I thought the roof must be the 5.12 so I figured, hey, we must be pretty good but apparently you're on the 2nd pitch, which we didn't do.
Once you have done that first hard move it's a great 5.10d to the belay. Its bomber climbing one foot smearing in the crack and flakes out to the side for the other foot. The pro's all wires even rp's. The crack is kind of sharp so the block of rock that fell out of this corner might have been blasted for the railway. Sport climbers can have fun here learning to slot the pro.
It's important to note that this climb is on the Lower Malamute, which is a contentious area. Why? Because it's on BC Rail property. The Climbers Access Society of BC is trying to resolve this issue. So for the time being it is closed. We will try to update here on Trailpeak. Directions will be posted when this area opens.
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