Just about as good as 5.7 can get. Well protected and totally fun. That said it may be a bit on the stiff side for beginning leaders!
The climb starts around the corner to the right from Three Birches. Scramble up to a ledge to double right-facing corners.
Pitch 1: Climb the corner past a pin up to a small ledge. Build a belay anchor in the corner and belay from here so you can see your second.
Pitch 2: Continue up the beautiful finger crack in the corner, step left onto a slab and continue to a tree ledge. Belay here. Consider lowering down about 15' where you can see your second.
Pitch 3: This next section can be done in 1 or 2 pitches. Climb a bulge on the left behind a tree (small gear). Continue to the next ledge and on up to a clean light reddish-brown face on the left. Climb past an old ring-piton. Wonderful climbing takes you to a ledge with trees.
From North Conway head North on Route 16 to the traffic light at River Road (at Citizen's Bank). Go left onto River Road and follow it over the Saco River and continue past West Side Road to the entrance to Echo Lake State Park - Cathedral Ledge. Drive in and park near the kiosk. Trail starts a little bit past the kiosk on the left for Thin Air Face/Mordor Wall.
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Posted By: bluesnpolitics
- Mon Mar 16 20:11:19 EDT 2009
UpsideGood Pro, good rock
Downsidefirst pitch feels hard
CommentThe second photo is technically not Funhouse, but most of the people that I know head straight up this route instead of traversing? to the actual second pitch. Great route either way.