This short cliff is often quiet when the other Lighthouse climbs are busy. On a hot summer's afternoon, its shady face provides welcome relief from the sun. There are fixed hangers for top roping all routes. The few manky lead bolts are not to be trusted. If you do feel inclined to sling a tree, please use webbing as these trees are suffering from almost being ring-barked by previous climbers.
There are four routes here, described from climbers left to right:
1 - Cauliflower 5.10c
2 - Arbutus One 5.10c
3 - Arbutus Two 5.10a
4 - un-named 5.11?
Follow Marine Drive west towards Horseshoe Bay and when just past Caulfield, you should see a sign on the left side of the road. Turn left and drive a short distance to the parking lot.
The two northern trail entrances will are for the Juniper Loop trail, at the bottom of which the Juniper Point Trail will lead you to the flat open rock bluff of Juniper Point.
Arbutus Alley is a small cliff just north of Juniper Point. As you come out onto the Juniper Point bluff, there is a small track going down the gully on the right. Half way down you'll see a shady ocean facing cliff topped with large Arbutus trees appear.
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