This west facing bluff above the sea is the perfect place for a sunset climb. It does get busy on a sunny afternoon, so best turn up early. Though there are many cracks and features, most routes are top roped, with good bolts accessable from the top for setting up.
The climbs listed from climbers left to right are:
1 - Ancient Mariner 5.6
2 - Hot Chocolate 5.9
3 - Double Overhang Bypass 5.10c
4 - Double Overhang 5.10b
5 - Dolphin 5.8
6 - Orca 5.12a
7 - Starfish 5.10d
8 - Big Pin 5.8
9 - Coho 5.10a
10- Jugs Away 5.7
All routes are relatively short, and can be climbed multiple times with many variations left and right of the direct route.
Follow Marine Drive west towards Horseshoe Bay and when just past Caulfield, you should see a sign on the left side of the road. Turn left and drive a short distance to the parking lot.
The two northern trail entrances will are for the Juniper Loop trail, at the bottom of which the Juniper Point Trail will lead you to the flat open rock bluff of Juniper Point.
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Posted By: coaxial
- Sun Oct 09 21:51:04 EDT 2011
UpsideAmazingly scenic, tons of sun exposure, great rock, good variety of routes. Bring your friends and your sandwiches, this is an epic picnic spot. Lighthouse Park itself is of course beautiful and has tons of easy hikes, great viewpoints, and picnic spots.
DownsideA popular spot, can get crowded on nice days, but have never seen it too bad. We were the only climbers there today, enjoyed the warm sun!
CommentThere are good topo route photos for Juniper Point and many other local climbing routes on a website called Project Climb. I'll link to that site rather than stealing the photos: http://www.projectclimb.com/src/climbing/crag.aspx?c=AC668C2EBA315913AE5D&tb=tp