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Local Boys Do Good Grading 5.11a
This is a superb high angled granite slab sport climb. On a hot day if the wind is blowing right you can even get a cooling waft of spray from Shannon Falls. The views are super once you climb past tree height to the 1st hanging belay.
Of course all climbs are graded on their hardest moves hence the rating of 5.11a. However, it's only until the second pitch that these moves occur. The first pitch is 5.10b and follows slab to a thin aplite dyke to the hanging belay. This first pitch was originally done in 1982, by Squamish locals Gene Smith and Joe Turley.
Two years later, 2 pitches were added by Squamish regulars Randy Atkinson and Dean Hart and slab master Carl Austrom to complete the climb. The 5.11a move surmounts a bulge just after the first hanging belay and is the crux of the climb. Once this is over it's a relative cruise, mid 5.10 to the 2nd hanging stance and 5.10a, although a bit of a run-out to the top of the 3rd pitch. The harder climbing below will have warmed you up for the climbing above. Rappel from the top.
Gear: This is a sport climb so the protection is fixed (bolts). Take quick draws and a few slings for the hanging belays and rappel.
Park in The Shannon Falls Provincial Park Parking Lot 5 kilometres north of Murrin Park (1 km south of the Chief). Head up the wide trail to the falls for a couple hundred meters to the boardwalk and watch for a big broken log crossing the creek. Cross here and follow the steep trail to the base of the wall. The climb starts about 10 feet to the left of the major hand crack that splits the wall (Klahanie Crack 5.7)
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Posted By: ChrisO
- Tue Aug 05 17:50:10 EDT 2008
CommentA better, and more official, access trail is found by walking back down the car park drive towards the traffic lights on Hwy 99. A few hundred metres before the lights you'll see a clear trail heading into the trees on your left. Follow this to it's obvious end.
Posted By: ChrisO
- Thu Aug 04 22:17:39 EDT 2005
CommentDespite the crux second pitch being down graded from 11a to 10d a few years back, this route is not for the feint hearted. With 8 bolts over three pitches you'll definitely be loving that clip sound. This is old school bolting at its best.