Moby Grape is a 6(?) pitch 5.8 climb on Cannon Cliff. A very well protected trad route, it is quite popular and you can expect a line on most nice days. Cannon Cliff is the tallest cliff in New England, at around 1,000 feet. Located in Franconia Notch, the weather is quite unpredictable and the climb committing. The approach is a 45 min hike, over a talus field, from the parking lot. The walk-off does not go past the base of the climb, so do not leave anything at the base.
Although considered the 'alternate' start, Reppy's Crack (5.8) is now the most often climbed first pitch. A stellar hand-jam, this full pitch is great fun although very tough on the feet and ankles. The next few pitches have tricky (but well protected and reasonable 5.8) moves. The crux move is the third (?) pitch where there is a well-protected roof to go over. Two (?) more pitches up, the Fickle Finger of Fate is a fun and interesting feature to climb (although easier than it looks). This climb is a classic for good reason and, along with the Whitney-Gilman Ridge, should not be missed.
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