We're on the verge of December, and I'm anxiously awaiting chance to ice climb locally. So I took
part of a weekend to research some GPS beta from a few seasons ago. We headed out toward North
Rustico, specifically, Orby Head to check out how things are progressing. This region is on a
coastline, where ocean tidal water slowly eats away the sandstone cliffs. Fortunately for us, come
winter, water that comes out of the rocks freezes into sheets suitable for climbing. The cliffs are about 40 to 50 feet high.
The last time I was in the region, it was the dead of winter, and the snow was very much in the
present. Even then, moving through the small bit of field was difficult due to the dense thickets and
thorn patches. Today, there is no snow what so ever, and cutting through the bush was a huge test to
Mountain Hardwear Swift technical pants I was testing. I guess they are going to survive, or end up being shredded.
I entered in at a clearing, and started at it. Tromping in the general direction of an old over grown
path or game trail. Every once in a while, it would get close to the cliff edge, and have to bush wack
away from the general bush wack. When I ended up getting to the best view of the premature ice, I
found myself pretty much in the parking lot of an easy access picnic site. Talk about feeling dumb.
A lot of work for nothing. Luckily, my pants and shell were unscathed. Score a point for pac lite!
Given the photos on the trip, I'm excited about what the season holds. Yup, there's ice to climb here
in PEI. I can't wait...
January 28, 2007
It's a year later, and the ice season is at the half way point. My friend Scott and I ventured one Sunday morning to check things out, and hopefully do a little bit of climbing on the ice flows off the sea cliff.
After over an hour of scouting, we committed ourselves to the venture by rapping down 30 meters to the shore. The tide was coming in slowly, but wouldn't ultimately reach our position. I say "committed ourselves" because we wouldn't be coming up the way we came down.
The ice flows went for 20-30 feet, and some were still flowing water, while others were bullet hard.
It was a meager attempt for our first climb of the season. With burning arms and time runing out, we retired early. Getting back to the top would prove the greater adventure.
We ended up scrambling on the point that gives Orby Head its name. After some attempts to lead out on a 6 foot flow, we ended up retreating, and scrambling up the rocks, boosting in some places, and digging ice axes into the frozen clay in others.
In all, the ice forming there looks great for what PEI offers. The rap down the sea cliff was incredible, and getting out was slightly desperate. This all will be made faster next time.
Directions:
Head to Rustico on Route 6, and turn right toward North Rustico. Head toward the national park, and look for Orby Head.
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