Photos by Greg Maurer of www.alpenglowpro.com. Photo Workshops, Limited Edition Prints and Panoramas.
Penny Lane 5.9 Crack Penny Lane Wall Little Smoke Bluffs
This crack climb was done for the first time almost 30 years ago! It was aided and then it was climbed free a couple of years later. It even sported a little cedar tree, which was removed along with other remnant garden debris during the Smoke Bluff development phase. Thanks Anders.
For the past couple of decades this excellent crack has served as a moderate test piece for up and coming climbers. The protection is super after you establish yourself in the crack. The first 3 metres or so presents a bit of a bouldery start. Some short falls have taken place here so maybe ask for a spot from your belayer. Once you sink the first couple pieces of pro you'll be on roll to the easier hand crack above. The bottom 6 or 7 meters of the 35 metre route have the hardest climbing?a little bit of stemming but it's all there, and once you're committed it's a cruise. Take some wires and small cams for the bottom and bigger cams for the rest. Rap or walk off.
There are over 30 short climbs on Penny Lane Wall. From the Neat and Cool area at the top of the long hill up from the parking lot it's just around the corner.
Resources: The Climber's Guide to Squamish Kevin McLane
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