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Ice climbing on north Cayoosh
posted by: ChrisO   email this member
Posted Saturday, Feb 23 at 1:16 AM
Sat, Feb 23 at 01:16 AM
Hey, I was ski touring NE of Mt.Cayoosh a while back, and saw a quite long section ice NE of the north peak, just down from the lake north of Cayoosh. Anyone know whether that's been climbed before?


Click to reply to this message There are 5 replies to this message.

trails page for AlpineJerrRe: Ice climbing on north Cayoosh
AlpineJerr  email this member
Posted Thursday, Mar 6 at 12:25 AM
Thu, Mar 6 at 12:25 AM
Hi,
I'm not up on the names in the area. But when I was travelling west from Lillooet. I noticed a drip past the lake and up a ways on the North side of the valley. There are no climbs ,that I noticed,in West Coast Ice located in that area. However, I didn't pursue it because, it would have to be a good size multi pitch for me to consider scrambling all the way up there!
Jerry


trails page for ChrisORe: Ice climbing on north Cayoosh
ChrisO  email this member
Posted Thursday, Mar 6 at 7:03 PM
Thu, Mar 6 at 07:03 PM
It's probably three solid pitches of just off vertical thin ice over rock, but you're right, it's quite the trek in.


trails page for ChrisORe: Ice climbing on north Cayoosh
ChrisO  email this member
Posted Thursday, Mar 6 at 7:09 PM
Thu, Mar 6 at 07:09 PM
Here's a photo of it. You can't really see from the photo, but the rock is covered in a good inch or two of ice as well. Looks more than 3 pitches ....




trails page for AlpineJerrRe: Ice climbing on north Cayoosh
AlpineJerr  email this member
Posted Friday, Mar 7 at 1:31 AM
Fri, Mar 7 at 01:31 AM
No, that's not what I saw. On this screen I can't tell if it's ice or snow did you get a good look at it?


trails page for ChrisORe: Ice climbing on north Cayoosh
ChrisO  email this member
Posted Friday, Mar 7 at 6:52 PM
Fri, Mar 7 at 06:52 PM
Yup, got a good long look at it. It's ice in the two main couloirs, and the what looks like clean rock in between had a pretty good coating of clear ice too. Keep in mind this was a couple of years ago, but I took that photo because I was so impressed by the ice fall. The slope above does slide, so that's something to be aware of. Access would be a good four or five hours ski or snow shoe in from the road. They'd be good camping on the lake NE of Cayoosh, the one that drains past the icefall.

This is NNE facing, so it gets zero sun. It's around abouts here:
50°24'37.3"N, 122°30'28.9"W (10N 534958E 5584373N)

You can find the details on how to get there here:
http://www.trailpeak.com/trail-Cayoosh-M arriott-Loop-near-Pemberton-BC-2240

That route doesn't get a huge amount of traffic, but I'd be surprised if it hadn't been climbed by some Pemberton climber.



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